Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Park Gilo and the Gilo Neighborhood©


By Vardah Littmann

One of Jerusalem's finest parks nestles at the western end of Gilo, the southernmost neighborhood in the city. Park Gilo on the slope of small mountain covered with fragrant pine trees, is loaded with recreational activities scattered all over the area. These include a Rollerblade rink, tennis and basketball courts, a bike track, and hiking paths. A stunning walking track overlooks the Malcha neighborhood and the Gilo forest.

Park Gilo also features separate playgrounds for babies/toddlers and older kids.  These have shoots and ladders that offer climbing challenges, as well as swings. Many tables with oversize chessboards and picnic tables offer places to enjoy family time. From the observation points, you can see Malcha, the Zoo, the Refaim Valley, and the Jerusalem-Bet Shemesh train line. The western outlook affords you a panoramic view of the Jerusalem hills

In the 1970s and ‘80s, the Gilo Park was a rambling collection of wooden jungle gyms, slides, rickety bridges, rope ladders, and tire-tunnels - set up in a forest among the pine trees. As many of you may remember, it was a fantastic destination for family outings.

Then the Municipality deemed the park dangerous and replaced the old playground installations, with modern equipment. The only things that were not changed were the many picnic tables, and of course, the trees. Although relatively unknown, many consider the shady wonderland of Park Gilo the best park in Jerusalem, and perhaps even in all of Israel.

The suburb of Gilo was established in 1971 after the Six Day War on land that had been legally purchased by Jews before World War II during the 1930s. When the area was captured by the Jordanians in 1948, the Jewish landowners did not relinquished ownership of their land. Today Gilo is enormous and has over 45,000 residents. Its 882 meters above sea level make it the highest point in Jerusalem.
 
A deep gorge separates Gilo from Beit Jala. On the east, the Gush Etzion Tunnels Highway runs underneath it, and the settlement of Har Gilo is visible on the adjacent peak. Bethlehem is to the South, while Beit Safafa and Sharafat are located north of Gilo.

Gilo has formed a wedge between Jerusalem and Beit Jala/Bethlehem. From the year 2000, Beit Jala was a Fatah Tanzim base used by gunmen to launch sniper and mortar attacks against Gilo. Concrete barriers were built by the Israeli government and bulletproof windows were installed in the homes and schools on the periphery of Gilo, facing Beit Jala.

After Operation Defensive Shield the attacks on Gilo subsided, with the rate slowing to three incidents of gunfire that year. Nearly a decade after its construction following years of relative quiet, the IDF started dismantling the concrete barrier on August 15, 2010.

The Book of Joshua (Joshua, 15:51) mentions a town called Gilo. In the Book of Samuel (II Sam, 15:12) we are told of Ahithophel "the Gilonite" whose birthplace and home was Gilo and who supported Absalom’s in his rebellion against his father King David. Later on, we learn that  Ahithophel committed suicide (17:23) in his home city.
The name of this modern suburb was chosen because of its proximity to Beit Jala, whose Arab name may be related to the word “Gilo.”

Above the shopping center on Rehov Haganenet, during the construction of Gilo, archaeologists discovered agricultural implements and a fortress from the period of the First Temple period. They also unearthed the remains of a farm and graves from the Second Temple period between Givat Canada and Gilo Park. Roman and Byzantine remains have also been found in the area.

During the 1948 War, the Egyptian army positioned its artillery at Gilo, heavily shelling West Jerusalem. An attempt by Arabs to advance on Jerusalem from Gilo was beaten back in a fierce battle. Although Kibbutz Ramat Rachel, located just north-east of Gilo, changed hands three times, it ultimately remained part of Israel.  Unfortunately Gilo stayed beyond the Green Line on the side held by the Kingdom of Jordan until 1967.

Gilo has 35 synagogues. The hostel for autistic young adults, Beit Or (Home of Light), was opened in Gilo in March 2008. The Ilan home for handicapped adults is situated in Gilo.  In 2009, the Gilo community center, introduced a new hybrid water heating system that saves energy and greatly reduces pollution. 

Due to its location beyond the 1949 Green Line, the United Nations, the European Union, and Japan refer to Gilo as an illegal settlement even though Gilo is an integral part of Jerusalem. Plans to expand Gilo have drawn criticism from the United States and United Kingdom. In 2009, 900 new housing units, approved for construction in Gilo by the Jerusalem Planning Committee, sparked a fresh round of global criticism.

Directions to Park Gilo: From Pat Junction, travel south on Ya`akov Pat Street whose name will change to Dov Yosef Street after the first traffic light. Continue up hill towards the Gilo neighborhood, then take a right at the top of the hill onto Haganenet Street. Haganenet runs straight into the park.

From Hebron Rd.: South towards Bethlehem, then right on Rosemarin Street (last turn before Bethlehem, follow signs to Gush Etzion). Travel straight on Rosemarin which turns into Haganenet Street and leads straight into Park Gilo.

Gilo is on the 31, 32, 71, and 72 bus lines.

Friday, November 30, 2012

Beis Yisrael©




By Vardah Littmann           Photos by Rimonah Traub
                                                           Www.israelcamerafocus.blogspot.com


The neighborhood of Beis Yisrael was founded in 1885 and was originally
supposed to be named Meah Shearim HaChadash (The New Meah Shearim).However, in commemoration of the Divine Protection the community merited in reclaiming the swamp and settling the area, Rav Yosef Rivlin proposed the name Beit Yisrael. 

The name is taken from Ezekiel 36:10, where the prophet addresses the hills and mountains of Eretz Yisrael: "I will make people numerous upon you - the entire House of Israel (Beis Yisrael), all of it; the cities will be inhabited and the ruins will be rebuilt."  This name was deemed most appropriate since its gematriya was equal to Bitzas HaMovess (death swamp).

The narrative behind this name is one of the most fascinating episodes in the creation of the "expanded" Jerusalem. In this story, it’s possible to clearly see the Hand of Hashem as He guided the wondrous development of Jerusalem beyond the Old City walls, and the fulfillment of the prophecy in Zechariah 2:8: "....Jerusalem will be settled beyond its walls....".

A Seemingly Insurmountable Problem  

Meah Shearim was established in 1874, and the first homesteaders moved in a year later. However at one piont, the colony seemed destined to collapse. The problem stemmed from a nearby valley known as Bitzas HaMovess in which a green, murky, and foul smelling pool lay stagnant. This pool was so deadly that even birds did not fly over it. It bred many malevolent disease-bearing insects, especially the deadly red mosquito which flew the short distance from the swamp to the forty newly-erected houses of Meah Shearim and attacked the residents. Women and children were most affected, and death struck many times.

People fled in panic to the comparative safety of the Old City as the situation deteriorated. Eventually the Vaad HaKlali (General Community Council of Prushim and Chassidim ) was forced to evacuate Meah Shearim.
      
In our technologically advanced day and age, short shrift would have been made of this swamp with state-of-the art industrial machinery. But 140 years ago, draining this marsh entailed great physical exertion and mortal danger since the only method then known involved working in close proximity to this malaria-infested pool. The fact that the swamp was enclosed and sheltered on three sides-- to the north , south, and west by hills-- compounded the hardship of approaching it. And the open east side had a low mound of earth in front of it which prevented the seepage of rainwater.
  
The swamp had to be drained if the surrounding areas were to be inhabited. The Vaad HaKlali  launched a local fundraising campaign  to cover the cost  of draining the pool. Their policy was to publicize only the positive aspects of the Old Yishuv, the “tuv Yerushalayim” in Chutz Laaretz. They tried to keep their problems to themselves, so as not to discourage their distant brothers. 
  
The day the Vaad took the desperate measure of moving the residents out of Meah Shearim to the overcrowded Old City, the Vaad director Rav Yosef Rivlin felt his heart was breaking. All his plans for the expansion of Jerusalem were dissolving before his very eyes. As reported by an eyewitness, he paced up and down his room all that long dark night. In great agitation he had kept on crying out "Ribono shel Olom, it cannot be, it cannot be!"

He continued to plead: "Please, Hashem, please give us an eitzah, give us an eitzah. Everything was done according to Da'as Torah, al pi goral HaGra. We did it all to sanctify Your Great Name and help your people."

Rav Rivlin’s “Pipe, Dog, and Rope Plan”

Before dawn broke, even before the first rays of sunlight slowly crept up above the horizon, he rushed out of his home and woke up all the members of the Vaad to summon them to a meeting at his home.

The members of the Vaad were enraptured as they listened to Rav Rivlin present the details of his plan which was conceived during the many previous sleepless hours. The idea was totally unrealistic and sheer madness. If anyone else had had proposed such an insane scheme, the Vaad would have rejected it outright. But since it was proposed by Rav Yoshe, they believed  it would succeed. They all consented to implement the “pipe, dog, and rope plan” unanimously.
       
In order to put Rav Rivlin's proposal into action, the Vaad approached the Arab owners of the marshland for permission to work on the swamp. The Arabs refused outright as they presumed the Vaad would pay them any price they demanded in order to accomplish the draining of the swamp.

But these Arabs had miscalculated. The Vaad had used its ties with the Deputy Governor, and within a few short hours, the Arabs received an official order to clean up all their swampland within thirty days. They ran to the offices of the Vaad HaKlali and literally begged the Vaad  to purchase their land. Rav Rivlin drove a hard bargain with them. He got them to include other swamplands in their possession in the sale. One of these plots later became the Kerem neighborhood.
   
Now Rav Yoshe’s  “pipe, dog, and rope plan” could be attempted. A pipe of some seventy yards long was brought to the west side of the swamp. A very strong thick rope of fifty meters was attached to one end of the pipe. The other end of the rope was fastened to a dog. A long leash was tied around the dog's neck, and the dog was sent to the swamp's edge. From a safe distance a man guided the animal around the pool to its open eastern side. 

The rope was untied from the dog, and a number of settlers pulled on the rope, thereby dragging one end of the pipe into the center of the swamp. The other end of the pipe remained on the western hill. Hundreds of water-skins of fresh water, transported from far away, were poured into the pipe.

At the same time as the pure water poured into the pool, a few courageous men, among them HaRav Yosef Chaim Zonnenfeld who was a young avreich at the time, dug trenches in the mound at a number of places in order to allow the water, both good and bad, to escape and flow away into the valley. The digging of the trenches required coming very close to the swamp.

Before he and the others began this part of the operation, Rav Rivlin declared that special nissim were needed from Heaven so that they would all emerge healthy from this holy endeavor. He requested that friends and acquaintances stand off at a distance and recite pasukim of Heavenly protection. These included a verse that was particularly appropriate: "Gam ki eileich b'gey tzalmovess, lo irah rah ki Atah imadi-- Even though I walk in the valley overshadowed by death, I will not fear evil for You are with me" (Tehillim 23:4).  

As Rav Rivlin and the team worked, they also recited these verses. At one point Rav Rivlin called out "LaHashem hayeshuah--- Hashem has the salvation, and no evil will befall us." And none did. All the members of the digging team emerged in perfect health.

Miraculous Transformation of the “Valley Overshadowed by Death”
   
In Av, a month and a half after the drainage of Bitzas HaMovess which had taken place in Sivan 5638 (1877), birds were flown over the area. Some of them even alighted on the now completely dried ground. This was a sure sign that the valley was totally free of disease. The residents of Meah Shearim were able to move back to their homes.
  
About eight years later, some prominent community activists of the Old Yishov were looking for a solution to the ever skyrocketing costs of living quarters in Meah Shearim. So in 1885, at a Vaad HaKlali meeting, a proposal was accepted to start developing the area of former swampland. The name Beis Yisrael  was adopted by the committee 

A "book of regulations" with 40 clauses was drawn up, among which was stated that every individual was obliged to keep his home clean and to make sure that communal property was also kept clean. In order to reduce strife among the residents, one clause declared that if anyone donated money or built a shul, he should do so altruistically without any feeling of ownership over the object of his generosity. The constitution describes in poetic terms some of the difficulties that faced the people of Jerusalem in those years:
 "Poverty and scarcity spread their wings over the Holy City of Jerusalem, may it be rebuilt soon. Her sons are dying on a daily basis, and the majority of the people are impoverished and destitute. Even the paltry stipend that used to give a bit of relief to the poor of Jerusalem to help them pay their bills has for various reasons, been reduced to a pittance. The sons of Zion will soon have to seek out another place to live. Lest it be too late and they find themselves, G-d forbid, forced to sleep outside in the fields, on the stony ground and in caves... with the help of Hashem, we have succeeded in gathering about a hundred members...who will build houses on this field and vineyard..."
      
Founders Who Guided the New Neighborhood

Rav Aryeh Leib Hirshler, affectionately known as Rav Leib Dayan, was a member of Rav Shmuel Salant's beis din. He helped in the founding of various colonies in the expanded Jerusalem-- Shaar HaPina, Givat Shaul, Nachalass Tzvi, and Beis Yisrael. The neighborhood of Beis Yisrael, which was now being built, was very close to Rav Leib Dayan’s heart.
He was the architect, the building supervisor, and the head of the settlement committee. He was also the Rav of the neighborhood (together with Rav Shimshon Aharon Polansky).

Due to Rav Leib Dayan's efforts, two shuls were erected in the area—one was the Beis Yaakov Shul which included rooms for the use of the Talmud Torah. Rav Leib Dayan was the first one to donate money for the Talmud Torah, and he donated ten gold napoleons for the cause, an enormous sum at the time. Rav Leib Dayan also raised money to build single rooms throughout the neighborhood, to be used free of charge by the destitute.

HaRav Chaim Zonnenfeld and Rav Zalman Baharan guided the neighborhood spiritually, while Rav Shmuel Zukerman and Rav Yechezkiah Mandelbaum were its communal leaders.       

Originally, Beis Yisrael consisted of one central road bearing the same name. At a later stage this street was renamed Zonnenfeld Street. Small alleyways on which houses were erected branched off to the sides of this road. Double story houses, all with spacious courtyards behind them, lined these alleyways. There was a shared water-well for every two buildings. At first the rainwater was collected in a huge outdoor pool but eventually public buildings were built over it, and underground cisterns replaced the pool. Later on, another main street, which connected the neighborhood to Mea Shearim, was added and named for Rav Leib Dayan.  
History of Beis Yisrael from its Founding until Today

The original inhabitants of Beis Yisrael were those who could not afford housing elsewhere. Eventually, many olim from all over the world settled there. By 1900 there were already 60 houses and two shuls. During the years of the British Mandate (1917-1947), the neighborhood grew and expanded northwards. The Israeli War of Inderpendence turned Beis Yisrael into a prime combat zone.  The 1948 Armistice Line placed the neighborhood near the border with Jordan.
In more recent times, the Beis Yisrael neighborhood was in the news as the location of a terrible terrorist attack. On March 2, 2002, 11 people were killed and over 50 were injured in a suicide bombing outside a yeshiva building where people had gathered to celebrate a bar mitzvah.
Today, the Beis Yaakov Shul has a number of smaller siderooms, known as shteiblach, that were donated and dedicated for sacred purposes by the owners of the private houses that were once located under the shulIn these shteiblach, mimyanim and Torah classes can be found at almost any hour of the day or night. The shul's gabayim claim that more people daven there on a daily basis than in any other shul in Jerusalem, (including the famed Zichron Moshe shteiblach). A few years ago the entire complex was modernized and renovated.
 Since the local population includes Jews of various ethnic backgrounds and each group prefers to pray according to its customs, many types of synagogues can be found in Beis Yisrael-- Dagestan, Kurdistan, Afganistan and others. The various chassidic groups, including Pinsk-Karlin, Lelov,Lubavith and Zvhill, also each have their own shuls. Plus, Yeshivas Machane Yisrael for baalei tshuva stands to the west of the Beis Yaakov Shul.
According to tradition, the neighborhood is built on the location where the sacrificial remnants of the  Second Temple were disposed.
      
The Mirrer Yeshiva, one of the largest yeshivas in the world with over 5000 students, is located in Beis Yisrael. If you should ever find yourself in the vicinity of Beis Yisrael at the end of a learning day, it’s worth walking over to observe a sea of literally thousands of Torah learners flowing though its alley ways. You will witness the fulfillment of the promise given to Klal Yisrael that Torah will never be forgotten among our people.
After the Holocaust severely decimated our numbers only 65 years ago,  who could have dreamed  of so many lomdei Torah in one place? As you stand there in utter amazement, watching wave upon wave upon wave of the Torah scholars of our nation stream past, you may find yourself with this spontaneous tefillah on your lips: “Just as we were zocheh to behold that Hashem kept His promise regarding the learning of Torah, and just as we  are  zocheh to behold the prophecy  ".....prozot  teisheiv Yerushalayim" in its fulfillment, so may we speedily be zocheh to behold with our very  eyes the return of the Shechinah to Zion berachamim.” 

And now that you know the story of “The Pipe, Rope, and Dog Plan,” you will be even more aware of the significance of this miraculous sight. 

Published in 'The English Update' 7th April 2011

Remembering Beis Yisrael of Old©




by Rebbetzin Chana Mintzer as told to Vardah Littman

Photos by Rimonah Traub
                              Www.israelcamerafocus.blogspot.com



My Childhood Home in Beis Yisrael

I was born at home, in Beis Yisrael, with the help of a midwife. In that era good families gave birth at home. Those of a lower standing went to the hospital to give birth. A few years later the situation changed, and the younger children in my family were born in the private hospital of Professor Sadovsky. In this private nursing home, the Belzer Rebbe of today first saw the light of day.

Today I live in the heights of Rechov Strauss. In order to reach Beis Yisrael, I need to descend and descend and descend, and then descend again. It seems to me it must be at least five floors down. But why was BeisYisrael built in this low spot? After Meah Shearim was built, people could not live there, since malaria that spread from mosquitoes in the nearby swamps was taking a large death toll. The swamps were dried and Beis Yisrael was built on this now dried out land.

 Our family lived in a triangle of three houses in Beis Yisrael. Before World War I my grandfather built one of the first houses in Beit Yisrael, with iron gates that were closed at night. Then my father, Rav Yosef Weinburg, built a home, and lastly my uncle added his section. Today this triangle is part of the grand empire of the Mir Yeshiva. My childhood home, the house where I was born and lived in until the day I wed, now has the distinction of being Beit Shalom of Mir. 

The BeisYisrael Shuk

Beis Yisrael was a mixed area, as Arabs also lived there. Where the main Yeshiva is today, an Arab family lived. They had a herd of goats. Every evening the master of the house and his goats would take a turn though the nearby neighborhoods (the new BeisYisrael was already built). He would call out loudly: "Chalib, Chalib, Chalib." Then all the housewives would come out with pots, and he would milk the goats directly into their vessels. This ensured the kashrus of the milk, for only milk that a Jew witnessed being milked can be used. Every Erev Pesach we would give all our leftover chometz to this Arab family. On Motzai Pesach they would come and give us butter. (Butter has no problem of chalav akum.) As you can see, we were on very good neighborly terms with these people.

Where Shomrei Emunim is today, lived a rich pompous Arab, an enfendie (rich man). He was a Chaj, as he had been in Mecca, and therefore he strode around in a green turban to show his loftiness. Every time I passed his home I had a strong urge to see what was taking place there, but as it was surrounded by dogs, I never did sate my curiosity.

There were many Arabs living in and around the area. But at the time of the Arab Riots in 1936, there was an exchange in population-- Jews from the Old City ran away to Beit Yisrael and Beit Yisrael's Arabs went to the Old City. The plot where the milkman and his clan had lived remained empty until the Rosh Yeshiva of Mir came, and Mir was built there.

The road that goes up from Beis Yisrael to the Bucharim is less steep, and that was where many tradesmen had their work shops. Many were from the Edot Hamizrach, and their young children helped them out. Rav Ovadyah Yosef who was a young avreich at the time came and convinced those parents to send their sons to Yeshivat Porat Yosef. Today many of those boys are the dayanim and leaders of the Sephardi community.

There were plumbers, shoemakers, tailors and carpenters. Today there is a whole street of carpenters. This area was built right before World War  II when an Arab called Stabie realized that after the Arab Riots, Jews had stopped buying in the Old City’s Arab shuk because they feared for their safety. (Shuk Machaneh Yehudah was not built yet). This Arab figured that if he opened a big shuk in the BeisYisrael area, he could cash-in on Jewish trade. So he bought land in Beit Yisrael and Malay Barok (Rechov Baran) and built the shops. But with the commencement of the World War, all businesses closed up and times were very hard. My father had helped to finance the building of these shops which were called the "Shops of Stabie." Eventually the carpenters took over the place.

During World War II my father sent money to Poland to the Slonimer Rebbe so he could marry off his children and continue his weekly tish

Phone Number 25

My father was the head of the community vaad appointed by popular vote. Each colony set up a vaad to take care of its needs. Because of his post my father was given one of the only hundred telephones that there were in the whole of Jerusalem. Our phone number was 25. One took the handle in hand and waited to be answered by the receptionist. When she eventually picked it up, one would say: "My number is 25. Can I be connected to 48?" As the phone might be needed at any time of the day or night, our front door was always left unlocked so people could always come in and phone.

My father had to take care of getting water for the whole neighborhood. We had a ness during the 1948 War of Independence. That winter was very rainy, so the large well in Beit Yisrael filled up, and there was no need to stand in ration lines in our area. In other areas people stood for hours in lines to get a ration of half a can of water per person. Many were killed in these lines. The mother of my friend was killed in such a line.

Father also had to pay the Rav's salary and provide an apartment for him. The Rav was a great man - the Rav of Tepic, known as a gadol b’Yisroel while still in chutz l’aaretz. The Rav knew me very well. Chickens were salted at home. My mother who did not want to rely on herself would send me to the Rav every Thursday, carrying our chicken. From all the times I visited him, he only once looked in a book to determine the kashrus of our fowls, as the shaylas my mother had were not real problems.

Most of the people in Beis Yisrael were not members of Kupat Cholim. (At the time only Histadrut workers and members had Kupat Cholim.) My father had to make sure there was an affordable doctor for the numerous large families in the area. Also he had to support the cheder. All this had to be accomplished without the aid of people paying taxes.

My father was a "go-getter" with many ingenious ideas. He brought water from the well in pipes to the shtiblach where he set up a tap. People took water and paid for it. The revenue was used to pay the Rav and buy him a house, to open a doctors' clinic, sustain the cheder, and pay for many other public needs.

A Majestic Kallah Chair Made out of Wash Basins

New Chasidic dynasties arrived and they needed places to hold court. When the Slonim Chasidus came from Teveria, my grandfather gave them an apartment in our building to start their shetibel. When the Rebbe arrived he said he needed a big building to be built for his needs. So father and grandfather donated a plot of land of ours that was next to our home for the cause. As a result, the most beautiful building was erected for Slonim right next to our home.

There were great Rabbis who lived in Beit Yisrael. When Rav Dushinsky came from Czechoslovakia, he built in Beis Yisrael, in the neighborhood next to Rechov Shmuel HaNavi. Today his yeshiva is located there. At the time of the War of Independence, they had to run away. The Rebbe of Satmar lived in BeisYisrael when he came to Eretz Yisrael after the World War. It is astonishing to relate that he did not even have a minyan at that time. I saw him light Chanukah candles.

The Rebbe of Zvil was a sublime person and an amazing personality. He, himself, lived in abject poverty, yet he collected money to build a luxury mikva in Machane Yehudah for our Sephardi brothers. 
  
When the Rebbie of Zvil's daughter married the son of the Reb Ahrelach Chasidim's Rebbe, she sat in our home since the wedding was held in the grand Slonim building. We made her a majestic kallah chair out of two piellas (large metal wash basins in which the laundry was done), covered in sheets. The simcha at that wedding was unbounded. I have rarely seen such happiness. True, the English police needed to be bribed to make sure the Arabs stayed away, but that was just part of my father's job as Rosh Vaad and taking care of the neighborhood. 

An American Jew who lived nearby imported two fridges, one for himself and one for my father. When there were two or three days of Yom Tov, most, if not all, the neighborhood bought their perishables to our fridge to keep them fresh. In those days most people did not have fridges. Even when I got married, I did not have a fridge. Ice was bought from the ice-seller, but by then it was easier to buy ice, as there was a special grip to hold the ice and it was no longer sold in a little bag as had been done in the old days. Before Rosh HaShanah, a ticket was purchased in the ice factory. During the break people went to pick up their ice to put in the ice box. 

Speaking of the refrigerators reminds me of the communal ovens. No one had a private oven. The children carried extra-large trays of beautifully braided challahs, covered with golden egg yolk and sprinkled in sesame seeds, on their shoulders to these ovens for baking le kavod Shabbos Kodesh. Many people baked panim challahs. These consisted of one large challah made up of twelve little challos to commemorate the twelve lechem hapanim breads the Cohanim ate on Shabbos day in the Beis HaMikdash. Likewise, these panim challahs were eaten at the morning meal. The cholent pot was also kept warm in the public oven.

Some families were very poor, and had no way of keeping water hot for drinking on Shabbos. My grandmother set up two large pans of boiling water over neft (kerosene) lamps. In them she placed many glass bottles before Shabbos. On Shabbos morning people would come to us with towels in which we placed the boiling hot bottles so that they could be taken to their homes.

Under Siege in 1948

Many times the English would impose an otzer (blockade). No one could come in, and no one could leave. My father had a special pass so he could take care of community needs. Once a bride and groom could not wed, as they were on different sides of the otzer. Father used his pass to bring the groom to the bride, so that the wedding ceremony could take place.

There were many Etzel members in our area. Many boys had left the yeshivas and joined the Underground. The British police would to try to trap them by imposing blockades.

On the 15 of May 1948, the State was declared. We stayed in our home in Beit Yisrael. The fear was palpable. The Old City was under siege. The New City was under siege. On Friday night we heard the Arab tanks rambling past our home on what is now Kvish Echad. With the help of Hashem, they passed us on their way to the Old City.

We considered the possibility of running away after Shabbos, but where could we go? The whole city was under siege.

My youngest brother was hysterical, and he did not want to stay in Beis Yisrael under any circumstance. He insisted on going to Rechavia. So Mother and the two little ones went to Rechavia, and all the rest of us stayed in our home. I then understood how people did not run away from the ghettos. At home, even if threatened, you are still a person. You have food and a well of water. You are home. But if you leave, you become a fugitive having to rely on the chesed of others which is a terrible feeling.

Helping the Refugees

That was a most awful Layl Shabbos and Shabbos. The chesed of Hashem was great, and after that Shabbos, the Arabs only bombed in the day and not at night. Yeshivas Mir was then only partly built; only the kitchen section was standing. All the Jews that were forced to escape from Shmuel HaNavi Street and its surroundings, and also from places in Beit Yisrael came and took refuge in the half built Mir building. (The Yeshiva itself was then in Achva.) Here they stayed until the ceasefire was brokered. People also squatted in the basement of the Slonim building. 

We started to think how we could help these refugees and make life easier for them. We also made plans to prepare for the next Shabbos. As there was no electricity, the daylight hours were extended by two hours. There was nothing to cook and even worse, no place to cook in. A grate was set up over branches and twigs, and on it was placed a large pot. My sister-in-law found some beans and some of this and that, and she cooked a whole pot of Shabbos cholent for everyone.

Very prudent recycling was done with the little water we had. Firstly water was set aside for cooking. Then the water used for washing dishes was recycled for doing laundry, and then this same water was used for washing the floor. Lastly this sponja water was used to flush the toilet bowls.

In order to receive rations, you had to give in your coupons. Each family had a coupon book that the makolet person had to take and stick into another notebook. For each item a different tlush was needed -one for sugar, one for flour, one for eggs, etc.  You received 150 grams of bread per head. The rationing system started in the days of the British and lasted until 1953 or 1954. For my wedding we received two kilos of meat. Now try to make a wedding with two kilos of meat. When my first child was born in 1950, I was given tlushim to acquire six cloth diapers. At some point American ration cards were added, and they were called "Strips."

Miracles at a Desperate Time

I must relate a miracle that we lived through. There came a point when there was no food - no flour, no sugar, and no water. Ha Kadosh Baruch Hu engineered that the wealthy area of Katamon, Givat Shahid was captured. The rich Arabs in the area deserted their homes which were stocked with sugar, flour, and all sorts of other edibles. This cache was used in the coupon distribution, but it got used up and the situation was desperate once again. At that point Rav Herzog, Rav Dushinsky and Rav Nissim were on the verge of surrendering and waving a white flag. Then Bernadot (the U.N. representative) managed to obtain a ceasefire, and Yerushalayim was saved.

Thursday, November 29, 2012

Tzippori: The Kever of Rabi Yehudah Hanasi©



Some say that on the same day Rabi Akiva was killed by the Romans, Rabi Yehudah Hanasi was born. A seventh-generation descendant of Hillel Hazaken, Rabi Yehudah Hanasi was the son of Rabban Shimon ben Gamliel and of the royal line of Dovid Hamelech.

Known as Rebbi and Rabbeinu Hakadosh, he was the key leader of the Jewish community of Yehudah (Judea) during the occupation by the Roman Empire, toward the end of the 2nd century CE.He wasthe greatest of the fifth generation of Tanna’im. Rebbi was a talmid of the five main students of Rabi Akivah. He is best known as the compiler of the Mishnah. Rabi Yehudah Hanasi passed away on 15 Kislev, in approximately 188 CE.

The Gemara in Kesubos (104a) relates that before he died he lifted his ten fingers toward the heavens and declared that he had not enjoyed even a little finger’s worth of this world. (This was so even though he was enormously wealthy and greatly revered in Rome and had a close friendship with “Antoninus” [possibly the Emperor Antoninus Pius]).

Rebbi then requested of Hashem that he be able to rest in peace. In reply, a bas kol (heavenly voice) declared, “Yavo b’shalom ve’yanuach al mishkavo—He will come in peace and rest on his bed!” The Yerushalmi adds that because Rebbi’s death was brought on by Hashem Himself and not by the Angel of Death, the prohibition of tumas kohanim did not apply and kohanim were permitted to bury him.

Sefer Chassidim records that after his passing, Rabbeinu Hakadosh used to visit his home every Friday evening at dusk, wearing Shabbos clothes. He would recite Kiddush, and his family would thereby discharge their obligation to hear Kiddush. One Friday night there was a knock at the door. The maid revealed to the visitor that Rabbeinu Hakadosh was in the middle of Kiddush. From then on, Rabbeinu Hakadosh stopped coming, since he did not want his coming to the world to become public knowledge.

The root of Rebbi’s soul was that of Yaakov Avinu. It is said that Yaakov Avinu never died, and we see from the above story that Rabbeinu Hakadosh also did not die. Both Yaakov Avinu and Rebbi had the same task. Rebbi said that the last seventeen years of his life that he spent in Tzippori were equal to the last seventeen years of Yaakov Avinu’s life which the Patriarch spent in Egypt.

Yaakov taught Torah during those last seventeen years of his life, thereby preparing the nation for its first galus that it was to endure in Egypt. Rebbi spent the last seventeen years of his life compiling the Mishnah in Tzippori, preparing Am Yisrael for the long, bitter Edomian exile.

Despite the tradition of the Yerushalmi (Kila’im 9:4) that Rebbi was buried in Beit She’arim, medieval traditions indicate that his kever is in Tzippori in the hills of the Galilee. Rabi Yochanan identified Rekes as Tzippori; it is so called because it is “above,” as a riksa (the bank of a river) is above the river.

In ancient times the city was called Sepphoris. It was fortified by the Assyrians, and then used by the Babylonians and later the Persians as an administrative center. It was the Chashmona’im who gave the city the name Tzippori when they settled there. Herod the Great took over the city and brought in Roman influences.

After Herod’s death, the Jews of Tzippori rebelled against Roman rule. Varus, the Roman governor, destroyed the city. He sold many of its Jews into slavery.

In 1 CE, when Herod Antipas became governor, he rebuilt the city and renamed it Autocratis. So beautiful was the city that it was described as “the ornament of the entire Galilee.” The Jews of the city chose not to rebel during the first Jewish Revolt, in 66 CE, when they opened their gates to the Roman army and signed a pact with them.

During the 2nd century the city was renamed Diocaesarea. After the Bar Kochba revolt many Jews moved there. Rabi Yehudah Hanasi moved the Sanhedrin from Beit She’arim to Tzippori. It was here that he compiled the Mishnah. It is to be noted that the sages of Tzippori also contributed to the Talmud.
Yerushalmi which was completed in the 4th century CE. In the year 351 CE, Gallus Caesar quelled a Jewish rebellion there.

In 363 CE the city of Diocaesarea was destroyed by an earthquake, and was subsequently rebuilt.

During the Byzantine period, Jews, Romans, and Christians lived there peaceably.

From 634 CE the Arabs, under the Umayyad and Abbasid dynasties, conquered and ruled the city, then known as Saffuriya.

In the 12th century, the Crusaders arrived and renamed the city La Sephorie. They built a fortress overlooking the city.

In 1187, when Saladin conquered the city, he reinstated the city’s name of Saffuriya. In 1516 CE, the Ottomans conquered the country.

Over the next 400 years, Tzippori was a small village of a few hundred Muslim and Jewish families. The village thrived on its pomegranate and olive produce.

Today Tzippori is a national park that is famous for its beautiful ancient mosaic floors and 1st century CE tunnels and cisterns, which one can enter and walk though. The Jewish part of town has been excavated; this includes a mikveh and a cobblestone street.

To reach the tzion of Rabi Yehudah Hanasi from the Movil’s intersection, turn right onto Road 79 going south-north, in the direction of Nazareth. After 4 km turn left into Tzippori, travel though the moshav, and after about 3.4 km go onto a dirt road till Har Hoshah. Just after this, the road joins a dirt road. Turn left onto a path, and some 150 meters down is the last resting place of Rabbeinu Hakadosh.

Monday, November 26, 2012

Bernikie - A Walk in the Hills Above Teveria©



When the Arizal would walk in the Galilean mountains with his  talmidim, he would often suddenly change course and follow untracked pathways. Hesaid he was following the lights emanating from the footsteps of different Tannaim or Amoraim who had
trod these tracks many hundreds of years before his time.

We dont see the light from the pathways, but the thrilling and uplifting feeling that the holy Chachamim  who comprise the  Mishnah  and the Gemara may have walked on these very paths, nonetheless accompanies one who walks down the steep unpaved Bernice Slope in the Switzerland Forest above Teveria. The path, which takes an hour and a half to traverse, is most aptly named Shvil HaAmoraim VehaTannaim.

The path is a most difficult one. It is recommended only for those who are physically fit and have much stamina. It must also be noted that there is hardly any shade along the way; the walk should be taken in the early morning or late afternoon, when the sun is not at its strongest, or on a cloudy day. Although the area is called Yaar Switzar (Switzerland Forest), trees are few and far between. At this time of year, the fields are especially full of purple and bronze thorns.

One must descend with utmost care, and while in motion keep ones eyes down constantly. The instructions of the Igeres HaRamban to his son are very applicable here: Head bent (forward), and his eyes looking down to the ground.

The impressive, breathtaking views along the way are well worth the effort. This could perhaps be the finest and most interesting vista in the region. There is a blue, panoramic view of the Kineret (that is shaped like a harp) and the scenic mountains that surround it.


Spread out beneath you is the city of Teveria. The city was founded approximately 25 years after Herods death (circa 30 C.E.) by his son, HerodAntipas, in honor of the Roman Emperor Tiberius and was named for him. But our Chachamim found Jewish content in the name, calling it Tov Einayim because of its beauty, but mostly because of the fact that the last place the Sanhedrin was exiled to was Teveria (The Sanhedrin went into exile 10 times  and Teveria was the deepest of them all - Rosh Hashanah 31b). The

Sanhedrin are referred to as einei haeidah -the eyes of the nation. They are the ones who - because of their comprehension of Torah - are able to see far-reaching consequences and know what is best for the nation and each of its individuals.

Most commentators on the  Zohar say that whenthe Zohar states that Moshiach will first reveal himself in the Galil, it means in Teveria. The  Gemara (Megillah 6a) says Teveria is the navel (tabur) of Eretz Yisrael. In the Midrash the Sanhedrin itself is likened to the navel, for the same way the embryo receives its sustenance from the navel, so too is the nation nurtured and sustained by the Sanhedrin.

Seen behind the lake on the eastern shore is Kibbutz Ein Gev. Ein Gev is near the excavations of the ancient Greco-Roman pagan city with the strange name Susita (Hippios), or horse, and was the sworn enemy of the new Jewish city, Teveria, across the lake. Josephus reports that during the Great Jewish Revolt of 66-70/3 C.E., Hippos persecuted its Jewish population.

To the north, one can make out the sites of the ancient fishing villages of Kfar Nahum, Ein Sheva and Migdal. Of the seven springs that emerged from Ein Sheva, only six have been discovered in our times. They produced warmer water than that of the Kineret, fostering the production of algae, which in turn attract fish. Fishermen have been active in the area for thousands of years.

Beyond them in the distance are the two highest peaks in the country: Mount Hermon to the north and Mount Meron to the northwest. To the south, ones attention is drawn to the Jordan Valley and beyond it to the mouth of the Yarmuk River (Nehar HaYarmuk).


Even without the magnificent views, the photogenic slopes themselves are a glory. About halfway down, there is an enormous, ancient carob tree. Lower down is a large and black monastery from the Byzantine period.

The grass is golden and there are many free-standing tzalaf (caper plants). From the debates of Chazal in the Mishnah, Tosefta and Gemara, one learns that the tzalaf was cultivated as a full-fledged agricultural crop. Even the young leaves, the tamri, were gathered and eaten.

Before the flower opens, there are small, button-like balls called cafrisin. In Talmudic times these were pickled and would net a high profit. Rabbeinu Hakadosh had a  chavrusa whose livelihood was collecting the cafrisin and was therefore called Yosie the Cafar. Even today, in high-class restaurants these balls are served under the name capers.

A striking, large, white flower with its pink stamens appears on the tzalaf. During the year, it blooms one day (less than 20 hours)  and thats it! The Gemara relates that Rabban Gamliel once told his students that in the messianic age a woman will give birth immediately(on the same day she conceives). One of the talmidim mocked this concept, saying there will never be something new under the sun. Rabban Gamliel gave this brazen pupil a withering look and the boy turned into a heap of bones. He then demonstrated that the tzalaf gives fruit each day. So, too, will women bear their fruit (children) each day.

The flowers piston then turns into a fruit. This fruit is collected and squeezed. The resultant liquid iscalled Cyprus wine. In Pitom Haketores which is said before Shacharis and Minchah, we find an ingredient that the  ketores is soaked in, called Cyprus wine. Some say this is wine that comes from Cyprus. But most opinions hold that this is the wine of the tzalaf.

Directions: Travel along the road above the kever of Rabi Akiva into Yaar Switzar until reaching the black trail. From here the descent starts.

Saturday, November 24, 2012

Jerusalem streets named for Harav Isser Zalman Meltzer, zt”l.©



There are two streets in Jerusalem named in honor of Harav Isser Zalman Meltzer, zt”l. One is the shaded, jacaranda-lined street in the Ezras Torah neighborhood, called Rechov Even Ha’ezel, after the title of his commentary on the Rambam’s Mishneh Torah, a classic in the yeshivah world.

The other is Rechov Ha’erez, which are the initials of Rav Isser Zalman’s name. On this second little lane in the “Lev Ha’ir,” in one of the 32 (lev) Nachalot suburbs, the street sign says Rav Isser Zalman Meltzer was Rosh Yeshivah in Etz Chaim. The Rosh Yeshivah and his wife lived in the second building of this short street, on the second floor, right at the end of the balcony.

Rav Isser Zalman Meltzer was born in the city of Mir min the year 5630/1870, in what is today Belarus. His first teacher was Rav Yom Tov Hakohen Lipman, author of Malbushei Yom Tov. At the age of 13 he joined the Volozhin Yeshivah, where he was very close both to the Netziv and to Rav Chaim Soloveitchik.

In 5652/1892 he married the daughter of a talmid of Rav Yisrael Salanter, Reb Shraga Feivel Frank of the Alexot suburb of Kovno. During his engagement period Rav Isser Zalman contracted a grave illness. He informed his kallah that under the circumstances she could break the shidduch. His kallah in turn asked the Chofetz Chaim what to do. The Chofetz Chaim told her that long life and health are not necessarily synonymous. He said they should get married and wished them both arichas yamim. Indeed, his brachah came to fruition.

In 5654/1894, Rav Meltzer became a maggid shiur at the Slobodka Yeshivah, together with his brother-in-law, Rav Moshe Mordechai Epstein. In 5657/1897, Rav Meltzer moved to Slutsk to establish a yeshivah. When the Rav of the town (the Ridvaz) traveled to America to raise funds for the publication of his famous commentary on the Talmud Yerushalmi and to become Chief Rabbi of Chicago, Rav Isser Zalman was appointed Rav of the city. As he had no formal semichah, both Harav Chaim Soloveitchik and Rav Yechiel Michel Epstein, the author of Aruch Hashulchan, telegrammed semichos, effective immediately.

In 5683/1923 Rav Isser Zalman fled from Communist Russia with his yeshivah and his son-in-law, Harav Aharon Kotler. They moved to Kletzk, Poland.

When Rav Isser Zalman made aliyah in 5685/1924 he settled in Yerushalayim, in what is today called Rechov Ha’erez. He was appointed Rosh Yeshivah of the Etz Chaim Yeshivah. Rav Isser Zalman is credited with having introduced the derech of the Lithuanian yeshivos to Eretz Yisrael. He is considered “the Rosh Yeshivah to the Roshei Yeshivos.”

Rav Isser Zalman was niftar at the age of 83 on 10 Kislev (17 November) 5714/1953, and was interred on Har Hamenuchos. His brother-in-law, Rav Moshe Mordechai Epstein, the Rosh Yeshivah in Slobodka and later Chevron, shares the same yarhtzeit of 10 Kislev, although he was niftar 20 years earlier, in 5694/1933.

Much of the post-Holocaust yeshivah world in both America and Eretz Yisrael can be credited back to the influence of these two great geonim and tzaddikim.

Although Rav Isser Zalman was a talmid chacham of towering stature and therefore might be expected to have been somewhat aloof and severe, the opposite was the case. His warm and embracing nature shone forth.

His sympathetic heart brimmed with kindness and goodness to all and sundry, without exception.
Harav Elazar Menachem Shach said of him,“Rav Isser Zalman’s goodness knew no limit. He greeted every single person pleasantly, thus increasing people’s love of Hashem and heightening Heaven’s honor.” He further said, “Anyone who knew my uncle, Rav Isser Zalman, could no longer be a shlechter [bad-hearted].”

No one could match the exacting care Rav Isser Zalman took to avoid causing others distress. The two
following stories illustrate this point.

The night before Rav Isser Zalman submitted his sefer for publication, he visited one of his nephews. Rav Isser Zalman asked this nephew a she’eilah to which his nephew had an immediate reply. This answer was included in the new volume, quoting its source.

Everyone wanted to know why Rav Isser Zalman had needed to visit and ask his nephew for an additional teirutz. Many assumed that it was Rav Isser Zalman’s immense love of Torah that prompted him to seek yet another answer. But it was later found out that it was Rav Isser Zalman’s immense love of people that had motivated him. As the new book contained some divrei Torah of a different nephew, Rav Isser Zalman feared lest this other nephew be hurt that his name was not included in the sefer.

Each and every morning, Rav Isser Zalman used to daven in Batei Rand. He once decided to start davening at the neitz. He arose early the next day to implement his decision, but in the end did not attend the vasikin minyan, but went to the Rand shul as usual. He explained that he did not want to pressure the people at his regular minyan by making them feel he had upgraded himself whereas they were left behind just as they had always been.
Main source: “In Their Shadow” by Rabbi Shlomo Lorincz.