It was unavoidable. You had to be downtown
to take care of some things. The hassle and noise, not to mention traffic both
human and vehicle, are overwhelming. You go under the archway on Rechov
Agrippas opposite Binyan Klal, and step out of the racket of the 21st
century and into a different world.
The place you came to escape too from your
hectic shopping spree is the tiny weenie park of Mazkeret
Moshe in the cluster of 32 neighborhoods known
collectively as Nahlaot -the Homesteads. The Hebrew word nahlaot is the plural
of nachala – homestead. Many refer to them today as Lev Ha’Ire,
lev equals 32.
It’s relaxing here, even though it’s not
really a park and has only one children’s “shoots and ladders” structure and a
little rocking horse. Set up opposite the Chabad shul, here in this “parka’leh,”
you can contemplate the history of the exodus beyond the walls of the Old City .
Today Jerusalem
is so far flung that it is hard to comprehend that its expansion only started about
152 years ago.
TodayJerusalem
is so far flung that it is hard to comprehend that only started about 152 years
ago. Maybe we are today witnessing the fruits of thousands of Shemoneh Esreis where
Jews requested the building of Yerushalayim. Yes, of couse physical growth is
not the aim. We want a Jerusalem
that is Yerushalayim Ircha which according to Rav Avigdor Miller ZZ”L
means all the citizens in the city will be Yeray Shamayim fulfilling HaShem’s Will.
Nevertheless, we see with our own eyes that our beautiful is Yerushalayim
heading in towards this goal.
Today
There are five neighborhoods named for Sir Moses
Montefiore in Yerushalayim: Mazkeret
Moshe (1882), Ohel Moshe
(1885), Yemin Moshe (1895), Zikhron
Moshe (1906), and Kiryat Moshe (1928).
Rav Yosef Rivlin, whom people nicknamed Yasha der Shtetl Macher (Yosef
the town maker, i.e. builder) because of all the Jerusalem neighbourhoods he set up, engineered
the construction of Mazkeret Moshe in 1882.
Originally (1877), this area was meant be part of Mishkenot Yisrael where140 homes
were to be built. However, lack of funding
due to the deprecation of money in the wake of the war between Russia and Turkey
and the lack of water (following a heavy drought) to mix the cement in order to
build, allowed for only 40 homes to be constructed here. The rest of the plot
was sold to the organization of Keren Mazkeret Moshe. A committee
in London to
honor Sir Moses Montefiore on his ninetieth birthday had set up this
organization for building housing in Eretz Yisrael.
In the
original plan, Mazkeret Moshe was meant to be for Ashkenazim, and Ohel Moshe was to be established alongside it as a Sephardi
neighborhood. In those times the accepted thing was that each eidah (community)
lived in its own area. But again, the lack of funds changed the original
plan.
The Sephardi muchtar Izcak Armosah
was approached to provide funds for financing the building of homes in Mazkeret Moshe. (Rav Armosah was the nineteenth
generation of his family in Jerusalem .)
He agreed on condition that Sephardim were
also given homes in this neighborhood. So a quarter that had both Sephardi and Ashkenazi
residents was established.
Mazkeret Moshe was set up on taharat hakodesh. The people of the
area were reluctant to open businesses, as they feared they might cheat someone
inadvertently. However, there was a need for livelihood, and slowly shops were
opened in Mazkeret Moshe. Mazkeret Moshe became the hub of trade and craft,
and it had a bakery, a carpentry shop, and more.
The buildings were
built next to Jaffa Road ,
a principal throroughfare, yet all the façades of the houses all look inward
toward the courtyard.
In the late 19th century, Arab marauders
and wild animals roamed unchecked in the rocky and uncultivated terrain
and living outside the strong city walls built by sultan Suleiman the
Magnificent, was quite dangerous and very terrifying. That is why the
new "neighborhoods" consisted of a square of one or two story
buildings, surrounding a central courtyard with a water-hole in the center. The
entrance would be locked and barricaded at nightfall. The few windows on the
walls that faced outwards were very small to prevent intruders.
Life was also directed
inwardly physically and spiritually. They lived insular lives. The mothers
spent their time next to the water cistern as the children played in the
chazer.
The whole of the Nachlaot
area is a fascinating lesson in the history of Jerusalem . Gentrification
(the process of renewal and rebuilding accompanying the influx of middle-class
or affluent people into deteriorating areas) is gradually taking over the area, and housing prices have
risen steeply. However, in the tiny lanes and alleyways, you will see people
living much as they did 100 years ago. Amid the hanging laundry, many pleasant
surprises await the explorer-- unanticipated shuls, unpredicted little shops,
and even a stained glass workshop.
In Nachlaot, it doesn’t take much
imagination to project yourself into Jerusalem
of yesteryear.