At Gerald Halbert
Park and Observation
Plaza , located at the edge of Jerusalem ’s bustling city
life, the beautiful, austere wilderness of Midbar Yehudah is observed in full
view. The contrast between the city and desert is stark and startling.
Today the whole
vicinity of the Hebrew University , including the Gerald
Halbert Observation
Plaza , is called Har Hatzofim (Mount Scopus ),
even though the area is actually an extension
of the Har Hazeisim
range that is famous for its cemetery. Not wanting their university to be
referred to as “Der Toiter (The Dead) University,” the University’s founders
called the area Har Hatzofim.
Over and down in the
valley on the other side of the road (and not visible from the G.H.P.
The G.H.P. Observation
Plaza straddles the
boundary somewhere between the Shevet of Yehudah and Binyamin’s
allotments. (Nowadays it very hard to define exact Biblical borders.) If we had
been at this spot during the time of the Beis Hamikdash, we could have crossed
the road andlooked down over the Tzurim
Valley directly onto Har
Habayis. We would have been privileged to see the Beis Hamikdash in all its
glory. Even at the place of the lookout point, the perfume of the ketores would
have enveloped us and the smell of the korbanos would have wafted over
to us. On Yom Kippur, the sa’ir l’Azazel goat was led though the expanse
one sees.
During the time of
the Beis Hamikdash, a month before the arrival of Pesach, a special official
was appointed to oversee those labourers who were sent to restore the
weather-beaten roads. He would also make sure that the wells and mikvaos were
renovated, and that the fruit trees, planted along the way for the olei
regel, were in good condition. The official was also responsible for
checking and repairing all the byways, including those in Midbar Yehudah,
ensuring they were in excellent shape.
There were 40 roads
leading to Yerushalayim. One passed by Jericho
and continued on to where
Maale Adumim is
today, then moved downward and cut through to arrive directly at Har Hazeisim,
perhaps passing the spot where the Gerald
Halbert Park
and Observation Plaza is now found.
On a clear day,
looking out from the G.H.O.
Observation Plaza
over Midbar Yehudah, the Dead
Sea is visible with the
purple Harei Moav mountains behind it. These hills are the portions of the Shevet
of Gad in the north and Reuven in the south. Somewhere in the region of the
areas of these tribes is Har Nevo, the burial place of Moshe. Midbar Yehudah is
the smallest desert identified in the world: 30 miles wide and 70 miles in length (from
north to south). The fact that it is in a lowlying region puts it in the “rain
cloud shadow,” thereby making it desert. (A “shadow” is a place bereft of sun.
A “rain cloud shadow” is bereft of rain.)
The rain clouds
coming from the west (Mediterranean Sea) move inland until they encounter the
height of 800 meters
above sea level (this is approximately the height of Jerusalem), where they
unload their water. They then travel downwards into Midbar Yehudah. This
combination of lowering of land height and resultant air pressure seems to
curtail the clouds from discharging their water; it even seems they have no
water to provide. As they approach Harei Moav, the altitude increases and this
somehow activates the clouds to give rain again. Therefore, this area became
known in Biblical times as the “bread basket.” It is where Elimelech, Naomi and
their two sons fled, to avoid helping the poor during the famine in Eretz
Yisrael. It was from here that Nomie brought back Ruth the ancestress of Dovid.
The expanse of
Midbar Yehudah, as one can see from the observation point, has for most of its
history been barren. It is only in the last few decades that both Jewish and
Arab housing has sprung up here. Such settling occurred after the Six Day War, when
there was a “political land grab” and anyone settling in any given area could
claim it as their own.
The red roofs of
Maale Adumim are distinguished far ahead, to the right. The name Maale Adumim
is derived from sefer Yehoshua (15:7), in which Maale Adumim is
described as a border area between the tribes of Yehudah and Binyamin. Maale
Adumim means the “red ascent”; this is the only significant uphill section of
the road from Jerusalem down to Jericho
and the Jordan Valley , and the route is dominated by
reddish hues in its rock formations.
Today’s city was
launched by 23 pioneer families on the seventh night of Chanukah, 1975. The
population of Maale Adumim in 2011 numbered above 39,000 and it is the
third-largest settlement in the area regained by Israel in 1967.
The Arab settlements
of al-Isawiya, Bitana, Anata and al-Za’im can also seen relatively nearby, large
and sprawling. Located 4
kilometers northeast of Jerusalem , Anata is identified by some as the
Biblical Anatot, birthplace of Yirmiyahu. Also observed is Road number One, the
lowest road on earth, which curves beneath the G.H.P. Observation
Plaza . Running parallel
to it is the security fence. In July 2004, the International Court of Justice
in The Hague
officially ruled that Israel was not allowed to
build a barrier. The U.N. endorsed the ruling. Some of
the hate-filled nations who claim that Israel has no right to a
defensive fence, themselves have fences to keep out migrant workers. Note:
their barrier is for financial gain and not for pikuach nefesh as with us Yidden. However, this should not surprise
us. As we declare on the Seder
night "Bechol dor vador ....."
"In each generation they rise up against us, to destroy us and Ha Kodosh Buruch Hu saves us from
their hand."
The Gerald Halbert
Park and Observation Plaza
is not wheelchair- or stroller-friendly, being that it is covered with coarse
gravel, which makes manoeuvring wheels very difficult. Nevertheless, quite a bit
of the view can be seen from the tarmac road.
Buses that reach
Mount Scopus:
From the central bus
station: 68 and 69.
From other areas in Jerusalem : 4A, 17, 19, 30,
42 and 46.
The last stop of Hebrew University
at Mount Scopus
is opposite the Observation
Plaza.
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