Machtesh Ramon

Machtesh Ramon is considered by some to be the most beautiful site on the planet. Located south of Be’er Sheva in the central Negev, not only is Machtesh Ramon among the most spectacular geological sights in Eretz Yisrael, but it has within it some unique geological formations that are not found anywhere else on earth.

A machtesh (erosion cirque, or box canyon) is a geological window, peeking into the Earth’s crust, that exposes a geological display. Unique to the Negev and Sinai deserts, only seven machteshim have been identified: Machtesh Ramon, Machtesh Hagadol, Machtesh Hakatan, and two even smaller ones on Har Charif, all in the Negev. There are also two in the Sinai.

The term machtesh is a new geological term, borrowed from the word machtesha (“mortar,” as in

mortar and pestle). Both the Machtesh Katan (Small) and the Machtesh Gadol (Large) look like mortar bowls in which grains are pounded with a pestle. This appearance does not hold true for Machtesh Ramon, which is stretched out and narrows at one end, and resembles the shape of an elongated heart.

These enormous, craterlike machteshim are neither meteorite craters nor volcanic calderas, although they are frequently described as craters. Machtesh Ramon is an erosion landform, actually a valley, surrounded by steep walls and drained by a single “wadi” (riverbed). The name Ramon is probably from the Arabic “Ruman” meaning “Romans,” and probably linked to a trail that the Romans built here.

Machtesh Ramon has some impressive measurements, making it the largest machtesh in Eretz

Yisrael, and thus the largest on earth — as no other part of the globe contains this phenomenon. The crater is 45 km long, 2-10 km wide (28 miles long and 5 miles wide), and 500 meters deep.

Its deepest point is Ein Saharonim (Saharonim Spring), which contains Machtesh Ramon’s only natural water source, a source that sustains much of the wildlife in the machtesh, including ibex and onagers. The onager, or wild ass (the Biblical pereh), was an animal that had disappeared from Israel. In 1983, two herds of onagers were successfully re-introduced at two locations — Machtesh Ramon, and another site in the Arava Desert. It is the smallest of wild horses and cannot be domesticated. In Roman times, the meat of the onager was considered a delicacy.

Other animals in the vicinity include the leopard, striped hyena, sand fox, Dorcas gazelle, and the fat desert rat. A variety of plants grow in the Ramon area, including Atlantic pistachio trees, buckthorn, globe daisy, tulips, and other bushes and shrubs.

Machtesh Ramon contains many types of rocks, including clay hills known for their fantastic red and yellow colors and forms, and much diverse colourful sandstone.

At the borders of the crater, impressive mountains rise. Har Ramon (Mount Ramon), at the southwest corner of the machtesh, is one of the highest peaks in the Negev (3,400 feet — 1,037

meters). Har Ardon (Mount Ardon) at the northeastern end, and two table-like mountains — Har

Marpek (Mount Marpek, meaning “Elbow”) and Har Katum (Mount Katum, meaning “Chopped”) — are along the southern wall. Givat Gaash, a black hill in the north of the machtesh, was once an active volcano. Shen Ramon (Ramon’s Tooth) is a rock made of molten rock which hardened while underground. This black, sharp-edged rock later rose up through cracks in the Earth’s surface, and today stands in striking contrast with the nearby creamy-colored southern wall of the crater.

In the center of the machtesh is Haminsara (the Carpentry Shop), a low hill made up of black prismatic rocks. It is the only place in the world where prisms made of heated sand turned into liquid, which in cooling naturally formed rectangular and hexagonal prisms that look like woodchips left behind by an indifferent carpenter. Also, vertical dikes of magnum that squeezed upward through fissures can be seen at various spots through the machtesh.

The ruins of a large Nabatean stone structure known as Khan Saharonim are found in the machtesh. It lies along the ancient Incense Route, a trade route used by the Nabateans, and is what remains of a “caravanserai,” a roadside inn where the travelers would rest and recover from the day’s arduous journey before continuing on. Dozens would gather and camp together and then regroup before moving forward, in an effort to protect themselves from bandits hiding out in the desert.

This structure acted as a way station for the traders and their animals (khan is the Arabic word for a caravanserai) as they proceeded further westward to the Mediterranean seaport city of Gaza. Not far away, to the north, are the ruins of the ancient Nabatean city of Avdat. The rise of the Nabateans began around the 3^rd or 4th century B.C.E. These traders traveled in caravans from Arabia and made their capital in Petra, in what is now southern Jordan. They eventually controlled trade in perfumes and spices and built numerous fortresses along the branch of the Spice Route cutting across the Machtesh Ramon area. Part of their success in the harsh desert environment was due to their ingenuity in conserving water.

The Nabateans built dams, terraces, cisterns and reservoirs that were very efficient in collecting rainwater and irrigating crops. Elements of this water system survive and can be seen today. (Hebrew University archeologists have rebuilt part of the system and created a farm that successfully utilizes the Nabatean farming system.)

Machtesh Ramon offers plenty of hiking routes and adventures for desert-lovers. There are numerous pathways throughout the area for both the casual and serious hiker. The spectacular views, the exclusive geological phenomena, and the tranquility and quiet of the desert merge into one harmonious picture of total beauty in Machtesh Ramon.

Anyone planning to drive down towards Eilat should seriously consider passing through Machtesh Ramon. You will be agape at the beauty surrounding you.

I would like to thank Rav David Magence (tour guide) for his additions and corrections to this article. He can be reached at (02) 652-1238